In the main the bottle weighs his weight

In the main, the bottle weighs his weight. A black ribbon dresses pass to quietly announce brand, Lanvin (photo). Rumour, the name of the perfume, seems manuscript. And for good reason: the typography was designed by Alber Elbaz, the designer of the House. Marketed this autumn, the fragrance symbolizes the new codes of a Deluxe packaging that is never as much needed to play the sophistication.

Launched by luxury Pack show which presents today in Monaco, Trends Observer put forward four lines of development in this universe of packaging for products high range. The track "Lux" plays on the light, the strass, the use of bright colors such as orange or yellow. The spin of Insolence, latest Guerlain perfumes, illustrates this concern for maximum transparency. The thickness of the glass also comes into play. In its latest issue, the magazine "Forms of luxury", which has launched a new formula, is amused to weigh the perfumes of 100 ml bottles. Result: 475 grams to Narcisso Rodriguez for Her, 502 for the man of Yves Saint Laurent, 532 for Lalique black ink, and even 3 kilograms for a version of Del Mar of Baldessarini!

Second axis of this Observatory in which "Les echos" participated in the sides of agencies and school of design: "attention". This notion of gift to the consumer translates into imaginative boxes. For the end of the year, the Cardhu whisky sold in cases leather Recalling bags to hand in the 1950s. Ribbons bloom everywhere, as on violet valuable of Caron perfumes. To the point that one of the specialists of the ribbons, green & Renouat, exposes for the first time at the show, in response to the strong demand for cosmetics. Available samples diversify their appearance as Imagin, the spray flat drag in magazines and launched by Valois, industrial to broadcast systems and promotional products.

For its part, the trend towards "the enchantment" tries to surprise. It passes through oppositions of forms, sophistication of finishes. "Work is in depth the effects of material contrasts." Touch is not uniform, cold. It uses technology to create a false simplicity. "Or, on the contrary, it operates a return to the hand of the artist, craftsman, to which has no industrial air, to almost handwritten typography" is Véronique Liabeuf, Associate Director of the design agency Dragon Rouge.

In this big ball of contents, the paper took speeds of leather. In Swarovski, Crystal beads Don on cashmere or mohair. Technicaps launched touch of ceramic pots plastic for cosmetics and realizes varnishing Recalling the appearance of wood, leather, textile. Housed in the Crystal, pearls of Lalique perfume extract displays a cap wearing black and white feathers. For Christmas, Sephora commercialize signed makeup Too Faced lace trimmed vane. With alcohols, Grand Marnier dressed for the holidays his bottle with gum, inspired by the Court of Versailles.

Last angle of attack identified by the Observatory: concern for sustainable development, the war counterfeiting or the preservation of the formulations. In this last registry, Déridium, Liérac cosmetics, comes in the form of single 1 ml dose. Clarins has opted for a glass bottle for a care to protect the skin of the "electromagnetic waves and urban pollution. This fog screen named Expertise 3 p and launched in January show a nomadic vocation, this conditioning, heavier, is necessary for the preservation of the active principles.

All axes confused, finishes is adaptability. The path is visible, and necessary, in perfume, after a time of commoditization and fading of a part of the offer.

But if large currents pass through the landscape of the packaging of luxury, the world of perfume decided not to choose between competing worlds. In the latest baroque coexisted with very clean lines. For night of moon, Sisley has even asked artist to imagine the plug for the close result of the sculpture. L, Lolita Lempicka, addiction to charms a FishNet way fishing net. While in contrast Kenzo love plays the line graph with a bottle silhouette opaque colors.

The past is revisited in recent launches. Amber for Prada man gives a modern version of the PEAR of the vials of the past, while Jesus del Pozo in Black offers a more literal version of the accessory. And the universe mix. Mona di Orio, parfum Lux, he dressed his plug with a muselet usual for champagne.

The diversity of codes is suitable for an audience to the varied tastes. "There is not one but several events of luxury." In some countries as for young people, the signs have to be in opulence. "In contrast, marks of insiders play more on the intangible, on new marriages of color," said Véronique Liabeuf. It considers that a whole field of action is open about the gesture of the ritual. A track followed by spirits and champagnes which are assault of imagination for the boxes. In beauty, it has yet to imagine new ways of opening of the products.